BELLADRUM TARTAN HEART FESTIVAL 2019 // BEAULY, INVERNESS
Driving south on the A9 through heavy rain and roadworks, the euphoric sunshine of the past 3 days seems almost otherworldly. Through the misty grey comes a flood of memories; of music, dancing, food; friends, family and strangers - aliens - and did I see a polar bear? Only at Belladrum!!
CHVRCHES HEADLINING BELLADRUM TARTAN HEART FESTIVAL 2019
PICTURE BY: | KENDALL WILSON PHOTOGRAPHY
★★★★★ (5/5)
In its 16th incarnation the Highlands' biggest music event remains one of a kind, not just for the region but within the global festival community. Boasting an extensive yet eclectic line-up of domestic and international talent, Belladrum Tartan Heart Festival is renowned for being a festival for all ages and musical interests. Nearly every genre is represented across its programme and the festival site itself accommodates multi-generational entertainment through everything from puppet-making and zorbing, to extreme sports, slam poetry, yoga, stand-up comedy, even burlesque workshops. And all that is without mentioning any of the chart-toppers on the bill. Anyone who thinks there isn't much going on north of the central belt needs to get out more!
It's not possible to single-handedly give a fully comprehensive rundown of the magic that played out over the course of this year's Belladrum so here instead is simply 10 of the best bits.
1. The Sunshine
If you've been to a muddy festival before then you can already appreciate what a difference a little sun can make. The absence of rain throughout the duration of Bella meant not only that the ground was pretty stable to get around on, but it was also blissfully comfortable above 19°C for most of the day. Perfect conditions for hanging out with friends and family, having a picnic or a wee gin cocktail (because when there's a dedicated Gin Palace how could you not?) and listening to great music in the warm evening air. It's not always like this, as the veterans hasten to point out, so top mention has to go to mother nature: she nailed it this weekend.
2. The Sci-Fi Theme
Each year Belladrum gives itself over to a specific theme, designing areas of the site to reflect a certain aesthetic or attitude and inspiring patrons to expand their knowledge base in a particular direction. The theme for 2019 being Science Fiction, fancy dress took in all sorts of creative endeavours with Trekkies and Wookies, and even more abstract creatures popping up around the site. I spied Marty and Doc heading into the Venus Flytrap Palais while I was queuing for risotto. In addition but on the flipside of that was the Bella Boffinarium, set up to showcase "Science Fact" with presentations on astrology, technology, rewilding and modern environmentalism. There was even an interactive aviation drama roaming around. Belladrum is special for a lot of different reasons and its dedication to presenting a theme that is engaging on so many levels is definitely one of the things that sets it apart.
But then, some music.
3. Fat Suit
This funk fusion ensemble brought the sunshine inside the Hothouse on Thursday afternoon with radiant sax and trumpet, glittering guitar and soulful keyboards. From the moment they walked on stage the crowd was down to boogie and the band delivered just the right grooves to keep them moving. If yoga wasn't your thing, Fat Suit could do plenty to loosen you up.
4. Wildwood Kin
What more can genetically perfected harmonies bring to the British Americana scene that we haven't seen before? Perhaps not a lot, even with gifted multi-instrumentalists Wildwood Kin. But there's absolutely nothing more enjoyable than hearing brilliant songs performed well. With the audience hanging on their every gorgeous note you couldn't help swooning for the Devon trio. Latest singles "Never Alone" and "Beauty In Your Brokenness" were both shimmering and powerful.
5. Man of Moon
Still yet to release their debut LP, the Edinburgh two-piece are evolving from a mildly psychedelic grunge act into some glorious electro-rock outfit with heavy shoegaze undertones. Drawing comparisons to Depeche Mode and The Twilight Sad doesn't quite do justice to what they deliver in the live setting. The dynamic between singer/guitarist Chris Bainbridge and drummer Michael Reid is in constant flux and, without being unsettling, songs like "I Run" and "Skin" play out with exciting twists and turns. Consistently one of the best live bands of the last few years, they proved their sound is ready for the big stages.
6. Boy Division
Being moved from the Bella Bar Stage to the Seedlings Stage made this performance feel even more intimate and special for Divisionists (every great pop act has to have a name for their fan collective, right?) and the upgrade seemed to benefit Chris, Noah and Kieran as well as they delivered note-perfect harmonies with seamless choreography throughout their brief but breathtaking performance. Pop music is streaming forward with unparalleled levels of self-awareness and these guys are already cresting the wave.
7. Ferris and Sylvester
Like every great song that finishes too soon, Ferris and Sylvester's Grassroots stage set left their audience wanting. From the high energy blues-folk of "Burning River" to the aching sweetness of "Flying Visits" with one microphone between them, they commanded attention in the kindest possible way.
8.Glasvegas
Given the honour of headlining the Hothouse Stage up against fellow Glaswegians Chvrches, Glasvegas were the perfect antithesis of their Garden Stage peers. Mere silhouettes against a wash of red and white lights, they allowed their songs to swell and cascade out over the enormous crowd that couldn't be contained by the walls of the sweaty tent. Spontaneous singalongs erupted frequently and singer James Allen noted that the audience participation on acoustic track "Whitey" would go down as his highlight of the festival. It was spirited and emotional from start to end, and heartening to see the band still at the top of their live game.
9. Self Esteem
Probably the most impressive and enjoyable performance of the whole weekend, Rebecca Taylor as Self Esteem is everything pop music should be in 2019; witty, honest, fun. With her band dressed all in red and working through some sultry tongue-in-cheek dance routines, while singing poignant and catchy songs about sexuality, relationships and identity, she is the musical role model you wish mass media was championing instead of the next vapid internet fad. Emphasis on the fun.
10. Lewis Capaldi's Reception
With a genuine talent and charm like Capaldi's there's not much point discussing his performance. It was great, as expected. The atmosphere when he came onstage however, that was something else. It's hard to say accurately how many of Belladrum's 20,000 capacity crowd was actually in front of the Garden Stage at 8pm on Saturday night but it was a majority. Like a big majority. An unprecedented volume by all accounts. And the atmosphere was incomparable. I've been to plenty of festivals and stadium shows and I've heard some screams. Capaldi's arrival was met with the kind of noise that makes you think defenders over your earplugs would have been a good shout. Tinnitus on command. It was equally the most terrifying and exciting moment I've experienced in the photo pit; I wouldn't like to do it again but I'd recommend it to anyone. And what's more it was sustained. It was as if the crowd had been sparing themselves all weekend waiting for this one set. Even if you didn't like the guy's music you couldn't help but stand in awe of what he brought to the event.
All that said, there were a few weak spots; the overcrowding around the Garden Stage for Lewis Capaldi created tension as security had to restrict access while some folk tried to reserve spaces with hazardous camping chairs or blankets. Arguments on the periphery and discomfort in the middle felt very much like a catastrophe waiting to happen. At the same time Peat & Diesel were letting rip in the Hothouse and that too required added crowd-control measures that felt about as dangerous as the crowd crush itself with punters corralled inside the tent.
The impact of crowding was further demonstrated in traffic queues entering and, especially, leaving the site with some patrons reporting waits of 3 to 5 hours to vacate the carpark. A good service of shuttle buses from Inverness city centre helped to manage the flow of day visitors but delays could be further alleviated with the addition of a park and ride nearby to reduce the volume of cars accessing the property directly down the tiny roads. Density on site meant mobile functionality was reduced. It wasn't the lack of Snapchat and Instagram so much that was frustrating, but trying to find friends or family to coordinate meals, transport and basic welfare was a bit of a nightmare. For the most part these were minor gripes and the overall feedback around the festival grounds was naturally very positive again this year.
The one major blight on Belladrum is still the masses of rubbish it generates in an otherwise pristine community. The use of disposables at a festival of this scale is unnecessary and does nothing to encourage respectful or resourceful behaviour. It's 2019; dropping plastic cups anywhere is unacceptable.
Hopefully these are matters the new owners will look to address moving forward with the festival, to maintain the safety and sustainability of their wonderfully warm, family-friendly event. For now, with the many musical blessings of this year playing over in our minds, as the rain sets in to soothe and cleanse the grounds the countdown to Belladrum 2020 can begin.
